Merry Christmas to everyone! Today’s hack is something that I’ve been planning to try out for a while: Using the Raspberry Pi as a (relatively inexpensive) “HDMI shield” for the Arduino microcontroller. While the Pi can easily do most things that the Arduino can and usually much more, one might have an otherwise complete project (for example, something related to home theater automation) that would benefit from HDMI output.
Arduino display shields are not the least expensive, so why not use a RaspPi instead? There have been hacks for using RaspPi as network shield, too, and this project is very much like it (actually, you could change the Pi-side code just a bit and have some network-related commands available for your Arduino in no time).
The basic hardware premise for this hack is very straightforward – wire the Pi and Arduino together using the serial interface available on both. Because Pi is 3.3V and Arduino 5V, a level converter is needed – I used one from Adafruit this time, as it’s dead simple to use and doesn’t pose the dangers of overloading Pi like my simple resistor option does (you might, however, check that link out as it contains the pinouts for RaspPi serial pins in the GPIO header).
On software side, the Pi acts as a “server”, taking simple display commands via serial link. You could even start the Pi server script and connect to the serial port with Putty, and the session could look a bit like the following:
# initialize viewport - not actually implemented yet
init 500 500
# draw a 10x10 rectangle at (5,15)
draw 5 15 10 10
# exit the server
exit
The python server uses pyserial for serial communications, currently at 9600 bps, but the Pi and Arduino should be able to do 115 200 as well. For graphics, pygame framework is used. Current version of code initializes a 500×500 pixel graphics viewport, but one could use the parameters given by “init” command from Arduino side to define that, too. The code should be rather straightforward to understand: there are only two supported commands, “draw” with four parameters, and “quit” to exit the otherwise infinite loop waiting for draw commands (I named the file ar2pi.py):
#!/usr/bin/env python
import serial
import string
import pygame
ser = serial.Serial("/dev/ttyAMA0",9600)
ser.open()
pygame.init()
window = pygame.display.set_mode((500, 500))
colour = pygame.Color("blue")
pygame.mouse.set_visible(False)
quit = False
while not quit:
line = ser.readline()
words = line.split()
if words[0] == "rect":
pygame.draw.rect(window, colour, (int(words[1]),
int(words[2]), int(words[3]), int(words[4])))
elif words[0] == "exit":
quit = True
pygame.display.flip()
ser.close()
The WebFaction web server hosting Code and Life (and other my sites) has been experiencing filesystem issues and has been down for fscking several times. Apologies for site readers, hopefully the provider gets these glitches ironed out soon.
As I mentioned earlier, I got a PicoScope 3206B back in August. After a few months of use I have gathered enough experience with it to feel qualified to write a review on the device.
Those who haven’t yet done so, I suggest you to check out my earlier review of PicoScope 2204 – it covers a bit of my rationale for a USB scope, and the basic features of Picoscope software, which is the same for the whole PicoScope product line.
The 3206B is the top-of-the-line two-channel scope in the 3000 series. The prices have dropped a bit after the introduction of mixed signal version 3206B MSO, so for $1320, you’ll get this device with fairly impressive key feature set:
Two channels, and external trigger line
200 MHz analog bandwith
500 MS/s sampling rate
A huge 128 MS sample buffer
Arbitary waveform function generator (20 MS/s)
Two 250 MHz probes, storage bag and software CD
For full details, I suggest you to look up the 3200 series spec sheet from Picotech’s website. Let’s get started!
Unpacking the box
Picotech ships from UK and within EU, no additional taxes or import fees need to be paid. Both my deliveries from them have arrived promptly within two days, well packaged and in impeccable condition.
The scope comes in a cardboard box that also has space for the probes, a storage bag and software CD. Nothing too fancy, but works well for longer term storage, too.
I’ve been quite busy with work and had a few fully booked weekends, so no updates in a while. Well, it’s going to change now, as I have two more updates in the pipeline already! The first one is an interesting project that’ll surely interest those that have read my USB tutorials: Alvin Chang has started a USB password generator project at indiegogo!
Mr. Chang’s project is inspired my USB password generator hack, and builds upon the (GPL licensed) codebase it also used. Many people have expressed the desire to get the USB password generator as a ready-made device, so if you’re one of those, check out the project and decide yourself if you want to participate funding in the Aladdin key project:
Note: I’m associated with the project only via the DIY password generator hack that the project is partly based on (basic hardware design and source code).
After receiving my Stellaris Launchpad, I decided to browse the little amount of tutorials there was available on the subject. I was really impressed by the Getting Started hands-on workshop offered in TI’s wiki. After watching the first few tutorials, I had a somewhat firmer grasp on how this little puppy was supposed to be programmed, and the capabilities of the Code Composer Studio IDE.
I got as far as Chapter 4: Interrupts until I hit the first snag: After the Lab4 assignment, the friendly instructor told that as a home assignment, one could try out the PWM (pulse-width modulation) capabilities of the Launchpad before proceeding further. Little did I know how many hours I would spend on that topic! After a solid 8 hours of banging my head against the documentation, Launchpad and CCS (which is prone to hanging at least on my PC), I finally got it working, and decided this would be a great place for a tutorial.
Rule 1 of PWM on Launchpad: There are no PWM units
The initial four hours of my PWM efforts were spent on the StellarisWare Driverlib documentation concerning PWM. In case you haven’t yet watched the tutorials, the Driverlib is essentially a bundle of code that takes away the burden of writing into dozens of control registers, and instead presents the programmer with a couple of hundred API calls to enable a higher-level approach.
It wasn’t until the third hour of googling around that I discovered, that while the timer functionality of the Launchpad includes a PWM mode, there are no actual PWM units on board! So if you’re looking at the PWM functions in Chapter 21 of Stellaris Peripheral Driver Library User’s Guide – stop it and get back to the Chapter 27: Timer functions.
Step 1: Setting up the timer0 PWM mode
So the only PWM functionality the Launchpad supports is the “PWM mode” of the six hardware timers. Thankfully, that’s already quite nice (if I ever find out how to use interrupts with PWM, even better). So unless you already know how the timer system works, now’s a good time to watch the Chapter 4 video which explains it quite nicely. Based on that tutorial, we learn that the following piece of code should initialize the timer for us:
The most popular project of all time at Code and Life has been my DIY USB password generator. When I made it, I used a piece of veroboard that just fit inside a USB memory stick enclosure. Well, guess what: Benjamin Lunt just recently designed a custom PCB for it! I’ve been exchanging e-mails with him (Ben has written a book on USB, another very popular topic also in my blog) and he was kind enough to ship me one of these neat boards. Here’s what it looked like:
In addition to a nice USB connector footprint, this design also has a green power LED and a red transmission LED (which needs a small firmware change). Once assembled, the thing is really tiny, and it does work great. Thanks a lot for Mr. Lunt for designing this one! Be sure to visit his blog, as he’s interested if anyone would also like to have one (I know I did :). Maybe he’ll even publish the design files if someone wants to tinker with it (of course making your own isn’t too hard either).
On the right you can see what mine looked after some soldering (click for a larger image) – I love the fact that small resistors from Partco all had different base color for different values… I had to compromise a bit and use 48 ohm resistors instead of 58, and 4k7 instead of 2k2. For the LEDs, I used 480 ohms.
