The reason a started my electronics hobby was that I wanted to build a chess clock. Lacking a proper LCD display, I chose to multiplex several 7-segment displays. Most sources in the net did not specify hardware at all, and those that did were driving the segments with a 74HC595 shift register and using NPN transistors to enable one common cathode display at a time. However, if you look at 74HC595 specs you’ll notice that it’s not designed to source the amount of current that is required to drive several multiplexed 7-segment displays. It might work, but no one can say for how long!
It took me a while to find a good, inexpensive and readily available alternative. I finally found it in ULN2003, which is inexpensive darlington array that can drive 500 mA from each of its pins. So I decided to write a little tutorial on 7 segment multiplexing that walks through all the needed hardware and software in detail. Here’s what we’ll build (click for a larger image):
For this tutorial I assume you know how to connect ATtiny2313 to a programmer and flash it with custom software. You’ll learn as much in IMakeProjects.com’s AVR tutorial. You’ll also need the following components:
Continue reading 7 Segment Multiplexing With ULN2003 & PNP Transistors
Wow, my AVR ATtiny USB tutorial here I got featured in Hack a Day! Motivated by the influx of readers, I decided to find out how to make a USB HID (human interface device) mouse.
V-USB examples already contain an example of this, so I digged in to see what is different in
usbconfig.h compared to the one we finished in my tutorial. It seems only a few things need changing:
USB_CFG_HAVE_INTRIN_ENDPOINT needs to be set to have an additional endpoint
USB_CFG_INTR_POLL_INTERVAL set to 100 ms instead of 10 in template
USB_CFG_IMPLEMENT_FN_WRITE is not needed, nor is …FN_READ (define both to 0)
- Device ID and name need to be changed. I’ll just use the same ID as they did
USB_CFG_DEVICE_CLASS is set to 0, not 0xff
USB_CFG_INTERFACE_CLASS set to 3 instead of 0
USB_CFG_HID_REPORT_DESCRIPTOR_LENGTH defined to match the structure’s length
That’s it! So here are the defines I changed:
#define USB_CFG_HAVE_INTRIN_ENDPOINT 1
#define USB_CFG_INTR_POLL_INTERVAL 100
#define USB_CFG_IMPLEMENT_FN_WRITE 0
#define USB_CFG_IMPLEMENT_FN_READ 0
#define USB_CFG_DEVICE_ID 0xe8, 0x03
#define USB_CFG_DEVICE_NAME 'M', 'o', 'u', 's', 'e'
#define USB_CFG_DEVICE_NAME_LEN 5
#define USB_CFG_DEVICE_CLASS 0
#define USB_CFG_INTERFACE_CLASS 3
#define USB_CFG_HID_REPORT_DESCRIPTOR_LENGTH 52
OK. So what about
main.c? Turns out the changes are rather straightforward:
Continue reading V-USB tutorial continued: HID mouse
My local electronics shop Partco (arguably the best in Finland) had a great offer on 6-digit LCD displays. For 1€ a piece, I immediately bought one:
Once I had my hands on it, the reason for such a low price became apparent: There was no controller chip, only 50 pins and the knowledge that pin 1 was “common cathode” and the rest were for the segments. So I decided to see if I could get it work directly without a controller. And succeeded, read on to learn how!
Continue reading Driving an LCD display directly with ATtiny
I wanted to build an USB device using AVR microcontrollers since I found out that it was possible. However, both the USBtiny project and the more extensive V-USB library lacked an easy-to-approach tutorial. So I decided to make one.
This first part covers the basics for making USB-powered devices, and serves as introduction for second part, which goes through simple example for using V-USB library to implement USB communication to and from ATtiny2313. Additional parts might be published later if I have the time and there’s interest.
But let’s get started. Here is what you need for this first part:
- USB cable and pin header
- Small breadboard and a few jump wires
- LED and 330 ohm resistor
- Low voltage drop 3.3V regulator, such as LD1086V33 or LE33CZ
The first thing we need to do is cut the USB cable so the end that goes into computer remains, strip the other end and solder the four wires into a pin header so it’s easy to plug the cable into a breadboard. USB contains four wires which you should solder in the following order (note: not all cables conform to this so check with a multimeter!):
Here you see the end result. When stripping the wire, be careful not to damage the wires and make sure the wires will not touch each other so your cable won’t short circuit your computer or USB hub!
Continue reading AVR ATtiny USB Tutorial Part 1